A350 macro questions, long

A350 macro questions, long

Finally......... after looking and waiting for 3 years there is a dslr, the 350, that is a serious candidate to enable me to make the switch from P&S. I take ~20,000 pics per year of spiders and insects, all hand held because the subjects move around and act quickly. I also find that a flip out screen is essential for ~30% of my shots - the alternative is not making the shot, getting my clothes dirty or damaging my neck or back! I actually prefer to use the viewfinder because I locate quicker & get steadier/faster focus but it's just not possible much of the time. btw, magnification and focus distances are ok with P&S provided you have a 10x or greater zoom lens - you just use a selection of the excellent, small, & inexpensive add on macro lenses attached using a bayonet fitting adaptor - in fact a bit like changing the lens on an slr.

So, on to the issues and questions that a novice to dslr has. It may appear I am focusing on the negative - so please don't take these items the wrong way - I believe the sony alpha lineup is breaking new ground in its' facilitation of macro photography.

1) Flip out Screen
The way that sony has implemented the flip out is not ideal for my use - but my conclusion is that it probably won't be changed to a full flip screen because of the row of buttons on the left side of the camera. I may miss some shots but I can live with this feature.
The more important issue is how to get good focus in live view (as with my P&S I will use fixed manual focus and move the camera to get focus). With P&Ss this is usually facilitated by pushing a button to get ~2x magnification in the center portion of the lcd screen - but this is done purely for focus after the shot has been framed. With the A350 there is the 2x capability which does aid macro focus greatly - but, as pointed out in Carl's excellent review, the frame changes to correspond to what you see. The option of pushing the switch back to 1x, followed by pushing the "take picture" button is not going to work because, hand held, focus will be long gone by then. Unless there is some work around this is probably the main defect of the A350 for my type of macro work and any suggestions would be much appreciated.

2) Dof
Increasing dof is a major reason for upgrading from P&S. I've looked, but haven't found any hard (or even not so hard) data on this for any dslr (there is good data for the P&S I use). My impression when I used the A350+50mm Macro at f32 at Sonystyle was that it gave greater dof than my P&S (which maxes out at f8 but has fairly good dof due to the small detector).
If anyone knows of any online data on dof I'd be grateful if they could share this - for example, shots of slightly offset piles of quarters taken at high F numbers with a macro lens.

3) On board Flash
My P&S has a hot shoe and I have used it - but I find that for getting into tight corners and for ease of use, the reduced bulk of the onboard flash is my preference. I do a significant amount of night macro photography because most spiders spin their webs and egg cocoons at night. Any information on shadowing while using the Sony 50 and 100mm macro lenses at close focus at night (or in daylight but this is a less good test) would be helpful here.

4) A minor issue, but is there a list/guide somewhere of the lenses that will work with the upcoming full frame detector.

Lastly, thanks to Carl for the excellent reviews and website.

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Robert



Hi Robert, and welcome :)

Congrats on the A350 btw.

Ill start off by saying that you are going to adjust to a DSLR over a point and shoot, you might not think you can at first, but you will, and it will get easier. The advantages gained overall will be evident in time.

The small sensors of the p/s cameras change DOF, giving you more dof when compared to a dslr and a lens in the same focal length, is how I understand it. I don't know of a treasure chest of info online somewhere where there are comparisons validated by facts, all I've heard and seen (I own p/s cams too) is that the smaller the sensor, typically the greater DOF for any given f-stop at any given focal.

1. Try using local focus, it helps in live view mode, by using the multi controller you can focus on any of the 9 points in the scene without moving the camera. Spot focus is a bit more sensitive, so if you can't get focus that way, just push the center AF button.

2. On flash shadowing. Remember that without a ringflash your minimum focus distance is only going to be so far away. On the 50mm, it is pretty close to the end of the lens with the onboard flash, but you will still need to back up a bit. Luckily the onboard moves up and stays forward, instead of up and back.. and it does help a tad. The 100 mm lens is a longer lens but you have more relief from the subject, you should be able to get very close up without shadowing. I was able to get within 3.5" or so from the front of the lens element on the 50mm before it started to shadow.
3. A list or guide on FF compatible lenses? I can say that Dyxum in its awesome databases of lenses usually posts of a lens is APS only, or FF compatible. I don't know for sure if that applies to every lens there or not. If you ask on any lens you are interested in I can help you. Btw, both Sony macro lenses and most others are FF compatible.

Thanks for the praise, Eric and I are working in the kitchen day and night here ;).

Carl

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-AlphaMountWorld Chef
"Currently cooking up something BIG in the kitchen"


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