studio flash sync?
Okay, so I recieved my Alien Bees ringflash and 2 b800s and then realized that my a100 doesn't have a PC connection nor does the hot shoe to PC connection adapter work. Anybody have any insight on how I am to get these to sync up with out using the slaves??? Also, does anyone here use Paul Buffs products?
Sedlocks
A100
Minolta 50mm 1.7
Tamrom 70-300 4-5.6

I'm using Interfit Stellar 600 with my Sony 100. I purchased a generic hot shoe adapter on Ebay. Make sure to get on with a PC connector on it. It has worked out fine with the PC cord. I recently purchased an Interfit Remote for my strobes but I cannot get it to work with the adapter. The remote will trigger the strobes with the test button as well as when I use it with my Minolta XG-M film camera. I'm still doing research to find out why. You can also purchase an adapter from Sony ($$$$$) or check with B&H for the Minolta adapter ($30-$50). I do not know if either have a PC connection.
Two things...
First, I shoot a700, and formerly the 7D, so I've always had the option of a PC sync cord, but they suck. Reliable, yes, PITA, even more so. I don't do your standard adult portrait session with my strobes - I take pictures of small children (3yrs and under), so I've got to remain mobile, and thus never use a tripod. Cords just get in the way, or fall out of the camera etc.
You can certainly find generic shoe adapters on ebay for about $15 shipped, maybe a tad more. Some of the better ones have a PC sync right on the side of them. You can also get generic radio triggers on ebay for about $30-$40 shipped. Stacking these two parts together creates a fairly large and unsightly beast on top of your camera. Well, I decided I wasn't going to let that fly. I purchased the smallest radio slave I could find - it's only about 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" x 1/2". I also bought a hot shoe adapter. Then, I cut them both apart, epoxied them together, and wired up the radio trigger's trip circuit to the hot shoe's trip circuit to make a single integrated piece. It works pretty well in a controlled situation. My biggest problem is reliability/consistency if the radio receiver is not in direct line of sight from the trigger, and it really has to be slightly in front of the trigger if at all possible. If not, sometimes it doesn't fire, and sometimes it fires just a split second too late and I get a half-dark image. If set up right, it works pretty well, and allows me much more freedom in how I work. This takes a bit of time and a bit of DIY skills, but it wasn't too complicated or time consuming. I'd highly recommend it :)
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