Painting With Light - by Andrew Woodhouse

AlphaMountWorld would like to extend a big thanks to Andrew for contributing this article!

Painting with light is a fun, and simple way to add that extra sparkle to your photos. The basic technique can be applied to many aspects of photography (including architecture), however I have found that itʼs most effective with macro/product photography.

The technique isn't particularly new, however, the advent of high quality and relatively cheap DSLRs has meant there has never been a better time to try it. Using a DSLR brings with it a number of advances, most notably the fact it's possible to experiment as many times as needed without spending a fortune on film processing. It also means more complex images can be created, with several layers containing different coloured light trails- using film it was nigh on impossible to create layered effects.

Below is one of my most successful images using this technique, and in this article I will explain the steps taken to create it.

Sony A100 Light Painted
Sony A100 DSLR: Konica Minolta 5D and 5 20 second exposures.


Technique.

The technique required to produce images like the one above is actually relatively simple. I set the camera (a Minolta 5D) up on a tripod in my garage and selected the two second shutter release to include mirror lock up. I then placed an A100 onto a workbench (which had a sheet of black paper for the background). It was simply a case of taking a test shot to judge the exposure needed to get enough of a light trail, but not to overexpose the image, and then tracing around the camera with a mini maglite torch. I would recommend a fairly long shutter time to give you more time to trace around the subject. In the image above it used a 20 second exposure. I split the camera up into five parts (grip, control dials, Sony badge, lens and left had side) which would later allow me to create and multi coloured image.

Once I had finished the photos I converted the RAW files and combined the images in Adobe Photoshop Elements.


Start images.


Sony A100 Grip Painted Sony A100 Left Side Painted
Sony A100 Lens Painted Sony A100 Badge Painted Sony A100 Controls Painted

The images don't look like much yet, but once in an image editor they take on a whole new perspective.


Assembly.


A100 Images assembled in ElementsOpen the images into Photoshop (or similar- any editing program will work, as long as it has layers and blending modes). Paste the images onto one photo, and then change the blending modes to screen. Do this on all of the layers except the background image.
 

 
Your image should now reveal all the light trails. The purpose of setting the blending modes to screen is that it allows the lights from each layer to show through. This leaves one final, composite image.

Adjusting Hue & Saturation in ElementsThe next stage is to alter the hue and saturation of each layer (do this with adjustment layers for added control) remember to click the colorize checkbox.. Pick bold and contrasting colours for maximum impact.
 

 
 
When changing the hue of a layer, it is important to 'clip' the adjustment layer to a specific layer. If you donʼt do this you will get a colour cast over the entire image.

Repeat this process for all of the individual layers and you should end up with a very vivid and interesting result.


Examples.


Final Painted Alpha 100 Painted Boot Example

The two examples here show the versatility of this technique. The image of the Alpha 100 shows how effective several different colours can be, and the boot image shows a more simple, albeit just as effective result.

Hopefully this article has inspired you to give painting with light a go, it's simple to do yet produces great results. It's an ideal technique for dull and rainy days!


Author - Andrew Woodhouse

How did you hold the maglight?

Was the flashlight pointed at the 5d? Or at the subject camera? I would think that the spread of the maglight's light would light everything up, instead of making such finite trails.

Good job!

Hi, Thanks for the comments....

Hi, Thanks for the comments.

I unscrewed the top of the maglite as this exposed the bulb and meant that the light source was smaller and more concentrated. I held the maglite with the bulb facing down to the camera and then moved it around the image.

Cheers
Andrew

your images...

Love the look of the camera with the smaller lights. Great job! I'm still trying to figure out how you wrapped the light around the camera to get that effect.

What is the object with the white light around it and what is the source of the white light? It looks like a long glow stick but I can't quite figure it out. It's a fantastic image!

Thanks for posting and for the inspiration...

Hi hollye

The images were easy enough to create. If you take a mini-maglite and remove the outer bezel around the bulb it creates a very narrow and well defined light source. By holding the torch vertically (with the bulb pointing down) I was able to get an image where the torch doesn't show- only the light is visible. The other image is of a boot, and was lit in a similar fashion, but with an old torch/flashlight.

Thanks for the comments.

Andrew

How would you hold onto the

How would you hold onto the light without the camera capturing the blur of your hand movements?

Andrew, your tutorial made it into wikipedia!

Go here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_painting

Check the links at the bottom.

Your DxO Film Pack review made it into wikipedia, too. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DxO_Labs

hmmm ....

Wow, isn't that awesome? The

Wow, isn't that awesome? The businessman inside me thinks it's great marketing for the site haha. I wonder who did that. According to its history, some 'Anorad' is the culprit.
--Kiran

To say I'm stunned is...

To say I'm stunned is a mild understatement. Who'd have thought it eh? As you say Kiran it's good publicity for the site.

Brittany, the hand doesn't record in the photo as it is constantly moving and the light levels are low. If I had held it still for a while, then yes, it would have shown.

Andrew

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